A Rain Tree at Half-forgotten Bili Ruins

A stop-off point? A domestic settlement? A refueling station? A ritual cleanseing space before audience in the royal court? A mystery for those that enjoy them! pictured is a walled enclosure further away from the vantage point which perhaps held goods once – people, cattle, grain…? These walls encircle areas away from the “mounds” further towards the edge of the elevated plateau on which sits Bili Ruins.

Not even the formiddable wealth of the google search engine turns up any references to the ruins we visited after Dholo dhlo. As a comparison of the two seems to indicate the smaller size and possibly less ceremonial function of Bili have led to it become quite forgotten by I hesitate to write tourists (for there are none…) but even by the Internet and African Historians. Really there is a good deal left in the dark in Zimbabwe! This is coupled with the fact that these ruins are on private/semi private property and hardly sign-posted. But if you persevere you will have the opportunity of seeing further fascinating remains of the remarkable builders of Khami and Dhlo dhlo ruins

For comparison, just around the corner from the impressive pomp of Dhlo dhlo ruins (pictured) is the smaller Bili ruins. Here the large walls suggest perhaps a more important or even royal court?

Not easy to find, definately no site museum but also no entrance fees…or entrance it would seem at Bili ruins.

Nearby on a private game concession apparently are the Bili ruins. They are quiet different to the other stone settlements and ruins we have visited. Great Zimbabwe, Khami, and Dhlo dhlo ruins are more imposing and seem to have an important aesthetic and symbolic function. Here the ruins are more modest and we are left to the conjecture that this was perhaps a look outpost or a way station of sorts in-between larger settlements and trading posts.

A large flat rock from which the entire valley is visibile makes for an advantageous building site.

Ashen resurrection plants (Myrothamnus flabellifolius) in the foreground and above the valley below coming into leaves, red and green.

The conspicuous mounds of Bili ruins whose funciton eludes me.

From the road on the game reserve we have to duck under a wire fence to get to the ruins. Good luck finding it as it seems that everything is working against discovering this secret place. Apparently, the orangeand yellow lichen that covers the rocks is a sign of pristine air condition – take a deep breathe as you enjoy the splendid vantage over the plateau where once traders, warriors, royal trains…advanced and retreated.

The large part of the ruins on the flat look out from whence the whole valley can be seen, consist of piles of stones. I am quite sure I do not understand the significance of these structures. The remind me of the hidden people in Iceland where they mark points where magical beings appear similarly.

One magical occurence I did spot was a lovely flowering Acokanthera which is sometimes called Arrow Poison Bush. It is a pretty evergreen whose highly toxic properties are utilised to spice arrows for killing.

Acokantera is pretty but highly toxic – after the starry white flowers come black berries that are not to be eaten.

My first ‘Rain Tree’ alive with spittle bugs dripping precious water from their behinds at the dry end of winter.

This lovely exposed mnondo tree is so attractive to these bugs that choose their food trees carefully and perhaps not every year or even the same species so that in certain years in an area there can be no rain trees and a rain tree one year may “move” to another location. Lucky we were indeed to find this rich sight!

Hands down the most rewarding sight at Bili though even though the half hidden mysteries of the ruins themselves are a treat was this tree. This tree was the first time I have ever seen an actually ‘rain tree’. The phenomenon of a tree ‘raining’ is attributed to various species so termed but is not a quality attached to the species of tree. In fact, spittle bugs drinking the sap of a tree coming into leaf after the winter rest drip from their rear-ends causing the impression that in the heat of the day under one tree alone it is raining. This was a truly awesome experience!

Under the raining tree we stop our car for some tea before heading on to more wonders…

The tree, in this case a Julbernardia globiflora (Mnondo tree), was buzzing with life and under its red budding leaves I stood in the rain of satiated bugs and enjoyed this natural marvel. It was time also for refreshments in this incredible spot before heading off to our last stop before setting up camp for the night.

Dholo dholo ruins visit

The Candelabra tree – Euphorbia cooperi at Dhlo dhlo ruins a winner even in winter

We head out from Bulawayo to our first stop on a hot dry winter’s day. I say, winter because the relatively few images on the Internet of the incredible world class ruins called Dhlo Dhlo ruins are predominantly taken in the lush summer period. My opinion is that they look their best in the dry winter months.

There is one tree that does not need summer to look its best and that is the Euphorbia cooperi whose dramatic outré silhouette is ever so dramatic in the dry dusty winter scene of Zimbabwe.

Trouble and it is not even 10 in the morning

Small occurrence on the way to the ruins however. We came across this scene. It was too early for someone to have been drinking surely. It did seem however that someone had managed to drive off the dusty shoulder of the road. Do not ask me how it happened. Willy and I stop to see if there is anything we can do to help though.

Sorry folks not much we can do to help, but how on Earth?…never mind!

While we are at it might as well have a look under the bonnet of our ride too. Saffron the Peugeot was dripping something in front and this may be cause for concern later on. Excellent balancing act there Willy!

Just to be on the safe side let’s make sure we are ok then shall we?

It is not yet lunch but it is quite warm when we arrive at Dhlo dholo ruins. As per the usual we are the only visitors. This is such a privilege as we were able to really listen and feel the special ancient atmosphere of the place. Talk to the trees (and stones) if you like.

First there is the matter of seeing the well maintained site museum of sorts with plenty exhibits and information about the ruins and well staffed by friendly and helpful caretakers.

Also interesting a comparatively good deal of archaeological evidence is present the points to Portuguese influences here in the form of trade and also possible prisoners being kept here. Considering MY heritage is that reason to be worried? 🙂

A scale model of the Dhlo dhlo ruins in the on site museum – well stocked with artefacts.

The fascinating ruins themselves may date back to the 17th century and are of an African style in construction. They may not have been used for defence but instead constituted a kind of prestige building that also may have had spiritual significance and use.

A prominent place to build with a large lichen and aloe covered rocky open space in front and below.

The Rozwi tribe that destroyed the power of the Monamatapa are said to have been the builders. Looking at the ruins obviously it is important to be above the minions for the more socially important members. Also one notes easily that there is a strong aesthetic function to these incredible walls and passages.

Chevron patterns show obvious decorative function of the walls built for pomp and ceremony. A sense of with you cannot help leaving Dhlo dhlo ruins with.

A good spot to contemplate ages past and let your mind fill in the gaps.

Three years ago I visited Kami ruins also a spectacular relic of the past in the same style as Dhlo dhlo ruins. The walls are constructed without plaster and hold together on ingenuity alone.

Lie down on the hot lichen covered rocks and feel the past ooze into your veins. 

Euphorbia cooperi magnificent old specimens in the bare winter landscape.

Looks more like a sea anemone than a tree. Again Euphorbia cooperi the candelabra tree (a very old one).

The only witnesses to Willy and my exploration of this incredible site are this equally marvellous Candelabra trees.

There are two more Rozwi sites to visit today before we set up camp. I am excited to see them before the sunsets…

The Bridge over the river GWAI – Binga to Bulwayo

What a smile and it comes with laughter that rings happily in your ears for ages after. Also comes with talent in the kitchen! on the menu today – African Spinach (Morogo) and Mealy Meal (putu pap)

From the hot tropical shores of Binga we are headed back to Bulwayo and to Stembiso’s sunshine smile at Willy’s home. A bit of civilisation in Zimbabwe’s second city and some helping hands before we head off for more exploring.

Exposed rocks and bare twisted trunks of the winter bush over the slick green Gwai river on the road from Binga.

With a ZOOOOOM I identify Commiphora marlothii with the green gold peeling trunks on the middle left. Also Terminalia, Combretum and a squat youngish Baobab (Adinsonia digitata) in the left middle. Did I miss anything treespotters out there?

The bridge over the river Gwai – a classic! Not another car or person in sight and all this sunshine before breakfast!

First we cross this dramatic valley over the river Gwai. Gwai river gives its name to the town of Gwai but here we are on this bridge somewhere over the rivers course. The bridge was commemorated in 1967 and allows for a pleasant stop to admire the contorted shapes of the bare winter bush.

At the Gwai River Inn one stops for tea and enjoys the atomsphere so very Zimbabwean!

Dazzling sun and flowers everywhere

An essential stop the Gwai River Inn served us a life giving pot of tea. Although I did not photograph it there is also an atmospheric bar with animal’s heads mounted and a TV playing sports matches. Pretty good I thought…Willy and I however chose to take our tea under the Bougainvillaea’s magenta splendour.

The one thing that definitely still works in Zimbabwe is the postal service. Even if electricity is cut off daily and water is not guaranteed to flow out of taps. Here however is not a post bow but a Zimbabwean Republic Police suggestion box. A testament to democracy, I can well believe that every note drop therein is carefully considered.

Democracy in action –

Father and healthy baby son

The whole family helps with the latest arrival. In the background Willy’s vegtable garden.

Back in Bulwayo to wash all our dusty affairs thoroughly filthy after Hwange and Binga’s adventures. We are assisted (enormously) by Majohnny and Stembiso, his wife. Since my trip last year in 2011, Majohnny has expanded his family with the arrival of his inquisitive baby boy.

The family under a granadilla plant, also called passion fruit…

The whole family is here is help us and not only is every bit of our equipment checked and cleaned, and Stembiso makes such delicious vegetarian meals (African spinach and mealy meal – so good!) but a lot of banter and gossip and laughing is thrown into the mix making chores extra pleasant!

Binga crocodiles and BaTonga lifestyles

The beauty of the water of Lake Kariba is felt most keenly here in hot arid Binga.

Binga, our destination is a remote and hot outpost that came about after the flooding of traditional homes of the BaTonga people when Kariba dam and its lake were built. The BaTonga are traditionally artistic cannabis smoking people with a totally different culture from the rest of Zimbabwe’s peoples and have been much disenfranchised in the past. More of that later though.

Willy and I are staying with a friend, John who is locally employed and lives in a spectacularly located home over looking the formiddible lake Kariba. In his lush tropical garden silvery cheeked hornbills gather, aloes flourish, a pool beckons the keen swimmer and, in general, all is well with the world.

An excellent example of Zimbabwean ingenuity an irrigation pipe is reused with perforations as a garden sprinkler keeping Crotons and Day Lillies vivid and fresh.

A lovely old toaster still in working order here makes Willy’s breakfast.

John is currently sitting on a treasure hoard of fabulous furnishings, though of course he does not know it perhaps. His toaster alone was a source of wonderment and a thing of elegance I much admire.

This device familiar to some stones peaches or cores apples I am not sure – but it is lovely to behold.

John’s work shirts are ironed with this iron which I am guessing is about 30 years old. I love that!

Actually, John is not just the lucky owner of several well preserved home appliances though this would have been quite enough. He is also the director of one of Binga’s most successful crocodile farms. Willy and I get the full tour of the facility which is expertly run, clean, and supplies croc leather and meat for the world’s markets.

A great past giant.

Some of the crocs are left to grow to full size to awe visitors with their primaeval allure at the centre next door.

At one end of the farm salt is drying out little fish on nets straight out of the lake. House boats and ferries are also visible in the distance. With the construction of the lake families were often separated and these ferries are a vital connection. This considering that the other side of the lake is the country of Zambia poses many challenges and added to the hardships endured by the BaTonga people with the devaststating changes to their traditional landscape wrought by Kariba’s coming.

White bait is salted and left to dry in the sun.

A pause along the shores of Kariba before further exploring.

Back in the cool oasis of John’s kitchen with it blackcurrant glass panes.

The white bait fishing and the crocodile industry are essential for the local economy. Before in previous years there existed an important tourist component. House boats and sports fishing along with other pleasure seekers would come. Now, there is little of that still but the crocs keep at least some people in work.

A quick rest up at John’s place is essential just to take it all in.

Ceiling fans and an agreable arrangement of the furniture lure us again to John’s

Inside the Binga Catherdal everything is hand carved by the talented and artistic BaTonga converts.

Next we head out to visit the BaTonga cultural centre. The BaTonga are an artistic people with a unique way of life. They maintain a cultural centre which unfortunately receives few visitors. Binga is not very accessible and the roads in are poorly maintained. There are just not enough tourists coming here and the people hoping to makea living out of showing off their handicrafts are struggling. I do manage to get away with some incredibly beautiful baskets, a gorgeous stool, a traditional doll made from Strychnos fruits and mud, and other objects from the cultural centre. Well informed guides are also there to answer our questions.

One of the many reliefs in wood.

Willy and I also make a tour to the airstrip where airplanes shuttle visitors in and I guess this must be the easiest way to see Binga. We also take in a cathedral with an inspiring conical thatch roof and some well worked and idiomatic wood carvings of the stations of the Passion.

The photo of the petrified trees so typical of the Kariba flooding.

We can see right through this gecko – did he swallow a glow worm?

The buzzing of insects, the crawling of ants, the wingbeats of bats, all this adds to the tropical atmosphere.

One last night in Binga with the tropical luxuriance of creepy crawly pouring out of every whole. Apparently, the gecko is quite tame and a regular visitor to the mosquito nets for his meals.

The Chibwatatata Hot Spring (say that ten times fast!) with Kariba in the background

Baths at the hotel at the Hot Spring collect the mineral rich water for guests to enjoy. The duty assistant manager gladly shows us around.

On our way out the next day we see nearby Chibwatatata Hot Spring. Also in its day this was a huge magnet for tourism as it testified to by the change rooms nearby and the large hotel with a conference room and restaurant servicing this sulphurous spout. Today again though there are not many visitors and the site itself is not well maintained as its seems cows are allowed in and graffiti mars the effects. The hotel itself seems well staffed though and will hopefully see better days when tourism picks up.

The Road from Hwange to Binga

Two hens hussle for turf at the Jealous Filling Station on the road through arid Matebeleland North to Binga.

The remoteness of our destination is felt before arriving. The road is hot and dry and very few if any large villages punctuate the trip. 

First, a quick peek at the retro style petrol pumps at Hwange base camp where we spend the night after the game count. The welcome luxury is supplemented by the camaraderie of other returning counting parties, the swopping of stories (none too tall), and the discussions with conservationists of the state of the nature reserve. The count will be tallied in good time but Willy and I must off to Binga. 

Like the game of chicken, here a lorry approaches us on a single strip of Macadam typical of the less frequented roads in Zimbabwe. The idea of course is not to show bravery or teenage lunacy but rather to be courteous and let one another pass. The tree woodland surrounding us is composed largely of Zimbabwean teak trees (Baikiaea plurijuga). 

Another stop for petrol this soon after Hwange is typical when one is not sure if at the next station there will also be fuel. This is the town of Cross Dete. A veritable tour de force of Zimbabwean journalism is found in this article http://www.zimbabwelatestnews.com/2013/05/men-queue-to-have-sx-with-visibly.html

A charming haind-painted sign in Cross Dete

Though this article seems to paint Cross Dete as a bustling metropolis of decadent red light districts and jet set business fat cats in my experience this four-way crossing and the Jealous Filling Station are the sum total of activity of the intriguing town of Cross Dete, non the less a centrifugal force for activity in this sparse region.

Living in an eco-friendly way at the least construction relies on local materials like wood and earth to build a new house as supplies are hard to come by and expensive in the remote north western corner of Zimbabwe.

As we approach our hot and tropical desitination the dry hills of this corner of Zimbabwe are apparent. With a few missions out here one provides free bicycles to the residents there is little other connection to the rest of the world here. This is attractive in its own way and frightening in another.

Naturally enough, the cows do not seem to mind at all being so alone under the great dull and dusty blue sky. 

Game Count Hwange version 2012

This year our trip began where last year’s ended, in Hwange, with the Game Count. Driving in we picked up part of our team at the Hwange Safari Lodge where my parents spent part of their honeymoon in fact. This is a lodge with a particular feel something like Jurassic Park mixed with The Cannon Ball Run perhaps?

The gardens I appreciated of course. A lovely ancient Acacia erioloba in front of the waterhole and in the atrium large lush Dracaena plants. Outside and in full bloom a Lonchocarups capassa (The Rain Tree)

In convoy we head off to the camp site where we will spend the night in preparation for the count the next day. It is demonically decorated with skulls and bones of the parks former residents, sable, giraffe, and buffalo prove to be particular favourite choices.

The camp is well looked after and a very comfortable place to pitch a tent. Though our simple tents are no match for some of the other more elaborate centurion level accommodations also pitched in camp. Sharing the camp site with us was a Youth Group from a catholic church and other winged visitors.

Brown headed parrots, a glossy, and a male plum-coloured starling all share the water in the camp in Hwange

A dust queen – even dusty bugs can be pretty

Also what is great is that the next day’s count site is in walking distance so after a careful scout for dangerous animals a quick trip to the privy or even a shower are all possible in theory. Though, this is not very much in keeping with the spirit of the event is was handy to have a back up option.

The next day it is necessary to create our ‘lapa’ of cars around the waterhole to begin the 24 hour stake out and game count. During the next 24 hours this is our view and our job is to make careful note of every animal coming to drink to be gathered for the parks statistical and conservation teams.

This Acacia has such a gorgeous branching pattern and seems like a real survivor. I have attempted to grow from seed Acacia erioloba (succumbed to damp…) and this is a very slow growing species from arid regions. Perfect however for photos and hugging though. 

This may be a long night and possibly not as thrilling as last year’s melee between lion and hyena. Luckily there are plenty people around with stories to share and sympathetic ears to appreciate them. 

Sometimes though, it does get too much and I must have heard Willy say at least ten times that this was the last year he was coming on the count. Not because he was bored but due to the fact that his night vision is becoming poor and thus it is hard to contribute and share in the nocturnal happenings. I will give you that this photo is taken in the blinking light of day though…

Just enough time for another marvel at the deeply fissured bark of the Acacia that had sheltered us and so say goodbye to its gnarled and wizened branches. 

gGame has been counted and it is time to head out to Binga in the hot remote North for a visit with an old friend and some even older crocodilians mates…

Super expensive flights to Bulawayo – click here

 

Colonial style swimming pool in Bulawayo 2012

Apparently the most expensive flights in the world are those short haul flights in Africa between smaller cities. It is time to get back to Zimbabwe for another trek around the country in the company of Willy and Saffron the Peugeot. No problem for me, coming from Paris with a stop off in Johannesburg. Only getting stung so badly on the ticket prices from South Africa’s major city to Zimbabwe’s second city that proves a hurdle in my sprint back to adventure.

My godmother Carol and Willy look a bit sceptical as to my motives for coming back to Bulawayo. I assure you it is to see your smilling faces. 

Though, the thought of seeing friends and family on the other side was a big motivator to fork out the cash needed to board South African Airways’ shuttle service to Bulawayo. In the meanwhile, I tried to think about other options. This shuttle has the monopoly on flights so that was an easy decision. There were rumours of a Namibian airline servicing the route but it was unreliable and at the time already out of business. I looked at trains, taxis, car rental, etc but they were all untenable. There is no public train connection between Jo’burg and Bullies at this stage. Pity, would be another great train journey.

A baby Aloe ferox self-seeded in my garden. Spring is HERE!

In the meanwhile, I am ecstatic to be in my garden in Maggaliesberg about an hour outside of Johannesburg. The trees and succulents are so lovely in the late winter garb. Spring colours, new flushes of leaves, and blossoms all make me so glad to be visiting my garden.

 

The garden is designed and love is looking lovely in late winter. Euphorbia tirucalli looks very red in these hot dry conditions and so attractive, no? Other highlights here visible are the bronze new shoots of Millettia grandis (centre), Aloe speciosa, and Baphia racemosa.

Most of the plants in the garden I grew from seed and so am attached personally to their development. In the above photo the plants on the Northern facing slope are often tender and here facing the mountains they can survive the winter cold. Also the added exposure to sun heightens the colours especially of the Rubber Plant – Euphorbia tirucalli.

If only it were possible to hug a thorn tree! Acacia xanthophloea the Fever Tree.

The fast growing Fever Tree has lent its name to a fashionable brand of tonic water. The history of this is the trees association with boggish areas (a useful property in gardening) and thus with mosquitoes. From there it is a short leap of the imagination to blame the trees for malaria and therefore to name the cure for this disease in the form of quinine found in tonic water after the tree. Of course, this yellow green barked Acacia has no direct cause of malaria. Of course!

 

View from the little pool of the ancient Maggaliesberg mountains just past the hand-shaped puce new leaves of Sterculia murex the Lowveld Chestnut.

Time for one last drink on the terrace over looking the mountains and to take in the atmosphere of the place where the oldest remains of our homonid ancestors have been found before boarding my super priced shuttle to Bulawayo next morning.

Clever public planting at a Bulawayo shopping centre. Here a highlight – Albizia

In Bulawayo, the first stop is to stock up on Groceries. At the shopping centre they have planted a large variety of indigenous trees providing shade and interest as well as a pleasant tree-spotting activity to enhance the task of buying groceries.

The tools of Willy’s trade – how macarbre.

Willy and I are cleaning house and there is a lot of stuff to go through. Willy is what some less-artistic people might call a hoarder – but what a hoard. There are a lot of stories to be told about the objects that keep popping up. Willy was once part of a team that was called in to identify burial sites from the wars and ancient burial site. He has the forensic tools with him that were used to discover the causes of death and the circumstances surrounding the burials. Very Crime Scene Investigation!

Samuri swords and other antiques chez Willy. I think someone is ready for a garage sale?

Myabe it is time to throw some of these things away Willy? A shirt that is more holes than not holes is not even good to clean the house in anymore!

Time to visit the tailor? or the local flea market at the very least.

Corogated iron portico in a dusty olive green

I manage to get to see a lot of Bulawayo hanging out at the Arts Centre where local artists have studios and art exhibitions are held. Often the subject of these are controversial and during my visit the temporary exhibit are closed down due to its controversial nature. Perhaps this is what the artist’s function is but not everyone sees it that way. It is wonderful to visit with the artists in residence buy some of their work that takes your fancy and I will certainly be back here as soon as I can.

Charming faux Cape Dutch seat of the Zimbabwe Medical Association in Bulawayo. Ubiquitous Jacaranda frames.

It does what the sign says.

Bulawayo architecture with an Acacia creeping into the frame.

 

All good things…

Together at last Willy and Genaro

So, after spending more than a month in an adventure that took me from one corner of the country to the other. Willy’s final farewell tour to revisit HIS Zimbabwe. We had travelled from the arid and remote South of Gonarezhou park into the astounding Chirinda forest in the East, up to Mana Pools in the North, Hwange in the West and much in between. We now found ourselves (after some hesitation…) at the iconic Victoria Falls. This is our only photo together from this trek.

The smoke that thunders

As I write this a few years have past since 2011 and I savour in the true sense these memories. What a trip and how lucky I am to have done it. Also, I know now as I write this that this year 2015 I will go back again to Zimbabwe and most likely I will be at Vic Falls again and my heart rejoices! Before then though, I have a whole other trip to Zimbabwe to share with you. Yes, I had so much fun that in 2012 Willy and I decided to do it again – only bigger and better – it has to be seen to be believed.

In the rainforest Willy’s hat keeps his head dry

What can I say? my next trip includes delving into the Bulawayo Art scene, a trip to the remote corner and home of the artistic BaTonga tribe, Binga. More  tantalising remnants of the ancient Zimbabwes and their civilisation, a special focus on San rock painting, and a good deal more…I am writing here in order to further motivate me that I hope to have that all blogged before I arrive back in Zimbabwe in August.

At the popular Victoria Falls

Meanwhile, back at the falls Willy and I are surrounded by tourists for the first time on our month long trek. we hear Hebrew and Korean and of course English. Some friendly souvenir salesmen offer to put up hard cash in exchange for mighty Saffron our ‘battered-up” Peugeot but not so fast guys we will be needing her again next year if not to get us back to Bulawayo and me to the airport.

Craggy cliffs receive the cascades.

Time for one last tale of a tree. The iconic Baobab this time. On the way home our spirts a little saddened by the parting that must eventually come. We spot a lovely young girl offering Baobab fruits for sale. I once grew baby Baobabs and turned a profit selling them to nurseries from such pods but this time we intended to feast on the now quite trendy, vitamin rich fruit.

Boabab for Breakfast in Bulawayo

And so a last meal and a last friend made on the road as…in a “veil of tears” I depart Zimbabwe…for now.

Cream of tartar for breakfast? Yes, please and thank you!

 

Lions vs Hyenas at the Hwange Game Count

Leonine visitor’s…

Hwange is cited as having over 100 species of mammals and apparently being the nature reserve with the highest number of mammals. After spending 24 straight hours counting them in the great and good name of science I can attest that this boast is not unfounded. This post will be the least photographically interesting to be honest. The most exciting bloodcurdling things happened in the dead of night illuminated only by the full moon and witnessed by our fascinated watch.

The Water hole where we will spend the next 24 hours counting anything that moves.

The Game Count serves to aid Hwange reserve estimate the number of animals each year. Due to the size of the operation volunteers offer to spend 24 hours in a large number of strategic spots counting the animals. It is great fun and it is in the name of conservation so I am definitely in for it.

Team ready to count!

Here are some members of our team. Our waterhole is unassuming in looks but also we do see large numbers of elephants and buck visiting, it is only after sunset that the action gets much more interesting.

All aglow in the setting sun ready for the night’s events.

Imagine being out in bush in the dark of night with no firearms and being surrounded by lions and hyenas. The watering hole keeps luring animals all through the night as warthogs, kudu, duikers, buffalo, lion, hyena, giraffe, sable, kudu, eland, waterbuck, wildebeest, impala, zebra, baboon, jackal, all come to drink and one is just scared to empty one bladder for fear of what is creeping up from behind the nearest scrub

Night falls in Hwange

The nocturnal drama of Lions vs Hyenas was thrilling to watch as each side took turns ambushing the other, and US! The lions (a collations of majestic males) at one stage disappearing only to regroup and stage an attack from behind our backs!

It has been 23 hours sitting here now…

But the next morning one is quiet hypnotised from the heat and the train of thirsty elephants sucking the waterhole almost dry. As this marathon game count comes to an end I think a highlight for me was seeing a rare White tailed mongoose in the middle of the night. An experience I would love to repeat and in fact did the next year but that is a story for another blog…

Sinamatella in Hwange on the way to the Game Count

A tractor is called in to move a dead elephant

Try getting to the Game Count in Hwange game reserve (one of the greatest African nature reserves) without tons of adventure. Stopping off at a water hole we were assaulted by the foul smell emanating from a dead elephant. Some men, assisted by a tractor are trying in dry heat to move the dead pachyderm so as not so foul the precious water.

From the hide we watch the maneouvering with growing interest and admiration. This is not the most considerate place of the elephants to have come to rest. Its guts have burst from the expanding gases of decomposition and soon I am sure the vultures will be gorging on this meal. There are possibly too many elephants for the ecosystem in Hwange and thus water is very scarce especially considering the elephants squandering thereof in play and baths and mushing a great deal into mud. The least they could do is spare the rangers’ wits by finding an “elephant’s cemetery”.

Another of my favourite Zimbabwean trees, Entandrophragma caudatum – the aptly named Wooden Banana.

Interestingly enough watching this macabre spectacle along with us are two Germans who have been driving down in a 4X4 from their home country, formidable! Onwards we go, and the trees keep me thrilled all through the heat of the day.

Willy trying to get down some wooden ‘banana’ pods.

I do not think we managed to knock down any “Wooden Banana” pods for closer inspection. I believe this tree makes an excellent bonsai and I only wonder if the bonsai wooden bananas are also dinky. The “banana” splits when ripe as in the top photo (a sign of the rains promised…?) to aid in seed dispersal.

The thorny Rhigozum bush of arid climes all gloriously golden frames a hopping Willy

A beauty of the end of winter is Rhigozum bushes. Such fortitude and gaiety in the face of the dusty heat this sulphurous yellow inspires a rain dance from Willy. Also, “the flowers match my car” line must have surely been uttered – Saffron the Peugeot in the background and Sulphur-coloured Rhigozum bursting into flower in front.

 

A lovely place to rest for the night before the hard day’s counting ahead of us tomorrow is Sinamatella camp site. Just look at the majesty of the plains below. Even with the Game Count the following day we had the place almost to our selves.

Dawn breaks over Sinamatella camp and the valley below.