Super expensive flights to Bulawayo – click here

 

Colonial style swimming pool in Bulawayo 2012

Apparently the most expensive flights in the world are those short haul flights in Africa between smaller cities. It is time to get back to Zimbabwe for another trek around the country in the company of Willy and Saffron the Peugeot. No problem for me, coming from Paris with a stop off in Johannesburg. Only getting stung so badly on the ticket prices from South Africa’s major city to Zimbabwe’s second city that proves a hurdle in my sprint back to adventure.

My godmother Carol and Willy look a bit sceptical as to my motives for coming back to Bulawayo. I assure you it is to see your smilling faces. 

Though, the thought of seeing friends and family on the other side was a big motivator to fork out the cash needed to board South African Airways’ shuttle service to Bulawayo. In the meanwhile, I tried to think about other options. This shuttle has the monopoly on flights so that was an easy decision. There were rumours of a Namibian airline servicing the route but it was unreliable and at the time already out of business. I looked at trains, taxis, car rental, etc but they were all untenable. There is no public train connection between Jo’burg and Bullies at this stage. Pity, would be another great train journey.

A baby Aloe ferox self-seeded in my garden. Spring is HERE!

In the meanwhile, I am ecstatic to be in my garden in Maggaliesberg about an hour outside of Johannesburg. The trees and succulents are so lovely in the late winter garb. Spring colours, new flushes of leaves, and blossoms all make me so glad to be visiting my garden.

 

The garden is designed and love is looking lovely in late winter. Euphorbia tirucalli looks very red in these hot dry conditions and so attractive, no? Other highlights here visible are the bronze new shoots of Millettia grandis (centre), Aloe speciosa, and Baphia racemosa.

Most of the plants in the garden I grew from seed and so am attached personally to their development. In the above photo the plants on the Northern facing slope are often tender and here facing the mountains they can survive the winter cold. Also the added exposure to sun heightens the colours especially of the Rubber Plant – Euphorbia tirucalli.

If only it were possible to hug a thorn tree! Acacia xanthophloea the Fever Tree.

The fast growing Fever Tree has lent its name to a fashionable brand of tonic water. The history of this is the trees association with boggish areas (a useful property in gardening) and thus with mosquitoes. From there it is a short leap of the imagination to blame the trees for malaria and therefore to name the cure for this disease in the form of quinine found in tonic water after the tree. Of course, this yellow green barked Acacia has no direct cause of malaria. Of course!

 

View from the little pool of the ancient Maggaliesberg mountains just past the hand-shaped puce new leaves of Sterculia murex the Lowveld Chestnut.

Time for one last drink on the terrace over looking the mountains and to take in the atmosphere of the place where the oldest remains of our homonid ancestors have been found before boarding my super priced shuttle to Bulawayo next morning.

Clever public planting at a Bulawayo shopping centre. Here a highlight – Albizia

In Bulawayo, the first stop is to stock up on Groceries. At the shopping centre they have planted a large variety of indigenous trees providing shade and interest as well as a pleasant tree-spotting activity to enhance the task of buying groceries.

The tools of Willy’s trade – how macarbre.

Willy and I are cleaning house and there is a lot of stuff to go through. Willy is what some less-artistic people might call a hoarder – but what a hoard. There are a lot of stories to be told about the objects that keep popping up. Willy was once part of a team that was called in to identify burial sites from the wars and ancient burial site. He has the forensic tools with him that were used to discover the causes of death and the circumstances surrounding the burials. Very Crime Scene Investigation!

Samuri swords and other antiques chez Willy. I think someone is ready for a garage sale?

Myabe it is time to throw some of these things away Willy? A shirt that is more holes than not holes is not even good to clean the house in anymore!

Time to visit the tailor? or the local flea market at the very least.

Corogated iron portico in a dusty olive green

I manage to get to see a lot of Bulawayo hanging out at the Arts Centre where local artists have studios and art exhibitions are held. Often the subject of these are controversial and during my visit the temporary exhibit are closed down due to its controversial nature. Perhaps this is what the artist’s function is but not everyone sees it that way. It is wonderful to visit with the artists in residence buy some of their work that takes your fancy and I will certainly be back here as soon as I can.

Charming faux Cape Dutch seat of the Zimbabwe Medical Association in Bulawayo. Ubiquitous Jacaranda frames.

It does what the sign says.

Bulawayo architecture with an Acacia creeping into the frame.

 

All good things…

Together at last Willy and Genaro

So, after spending more than a month in an adventure that took me from one corner of the country to the other. Willy’s final farewell tour to revisit HIS Zimbabwe. We had travelled from the arid and remote South of Gonarezhou park into the astounding Chirinda forest in the East, up to Mana Pools in the North, Hwange in the West and much in between. We now found ourselves (after some hesitation…) at the iconic Victoria Falls. This is our only photo together from this trek.

The smoke that thunders

As I write this a few years have past since 2011 and I savour in the true sense these memories. What a trip and how lucky I am to have done it. Also, I know now as I write this that this year 2015 I will go back again to Zimbabwe and most likely I will be at Vic Falls again and my heart rejoices! Before then though, I have a whole other trip to Zimbabwe to share with you. Yes, I had so much fun that in 2012 Willy and I decided to do it again – only bigger and better – it has to be seen to be believed.

In the rainforest Willy’s hat keeps his head dry

What can I say? my next trip includes delving into the Bulawayo Art scene, a trip to the remote corner and home of the artistic BaTonga tribe, Binga. More  tantalising remnants of the ancient Zimbabwes and their civilisation, a special focus on San rock painting, and a good deal more…I am writing here in order to further motivate me that I hope to have that all blogged before I arrive back in Zimbabwe in August.

At the popular Victoria Falls

Meanwhile, back at the falls Willy and I are surrounded by tourists for the first time on our month long trek. we hear Hebrew and Korean and of course English. Some friendly souvenir salesmen offer to put up hard cash in exchange for mighty Saffron our ‘battered-up” Peugeot but not so fast guys we will be needing her again next year if not to get us back to Bulawayo and me to the airport.

Craggy cliffs receive the cascades.

Time for one last tale of a tree. The iconic Baobab this time. On the way home our spirts a little saddened by the parting that must eventually come. We spot a lovely young girl offering Baobab fruits for sale. I once grew baby Baobabs and turned a profit selling them to nurseries from such pods but this time we intended to feast on the now quite trendy, vitamin rich fruit.

Boabab for Breakfast in Bulawayo

And so a last meal and a last friend made on the road as…in a “veil of tears” I depart Zimbabwe…for now.

Cream of tartar for breakfast? Yes, please and thank you!

 

Lions vs Hyenas at the Hwange Game Count

Leonine visitor’s…

Hwange is cited as having over 100 species of mammals and apparently being the nature reserve with the highest number of mammals. After spending 24 straight hours counting them in the great and good name of science I can attest that this boast is not unfounded. This post will be the least photographically interesting to be honest. The most exciting bloodcurdling things happened in the dead of night illuminated only by the full moon and witnessed by our fascinated watch.

The Water hole where we will spend the next 24 hours counting anything that moves.

The Game Count serves to aid Hwange reserve estimate the number of animals each year. Due to the size of the operation volunteers offer to spend 24 hours in a large number of strategic spots counting the animals. It is great fun and it is in the name of conservation so I am definitely in for it.

Team ready to count!

Here are some members of our team. Our waterhole is unassuming in looks but also we do see large numbers of elephants and buck visiting, it is only after sunset that the action gets much more interesting.

All aglow in the setting sun ready for the night’s events.

Imagine being out in bush in the dark of night with no firearms and being surrounded by lions and hyenas. The watering hole keeps luring animals all through the night as warthogs, kudu, duikers, buffalo, lion, hyena, giraffe, sable, kudu, eland, waterbuck, wildebeest, impala, zebra, baboon, jackal, all come to drink and one is just scared to empty one bladder for fear of what is creeping up from behind the nearest scrub

Night falls in Hwange

The nocturnal drama of Lions vs Hyenas was thrilling to watch as each side took turns ambushing the other, and US! The lions (a collations of majestic males) at one stage disappearing only to regroup and stage an attack from behind our backs!

It has been 23 hours sitting here now…

But the next morning one is quiet hypnotised from the heat and the train of thirsty elephants sucking the waterhole almost dry. As this marathon game count comes to an end I think a highlight for me was seeing a rare White tailed mongoose in the middle of the night. An experience I would love to repeat and in fact did the next year but that is a story for another blog…

Sinamatella in Hwange on the way to the Game Count

A tractor is called in to move a dead elephant

Try getting to the Game Count in Hwange game reserve (one of the greatest African nature reserves) without tons of adventure. Stopping off at a water hole we were assaulted by the foul smell emanating from a dead elephant. Some men, assisted by a tractor are trying in dry heat to move the dead pachyderm so as not so foul the precious water.

From the hide we watch the maneouvering with growing interest and admiration. This is not the most considerate place of the elephants to have come to rest. Its guts have burst from the expanding gases of decomposition and soon I am sure the vultures will be gorging on this meal. There are possibly too many elephants for the ecosystem in Hwange and thus water is very scarce especially considering the elephants squandering thereof in play and baths and mushing a great deal into mud. The least they could do is spare the rangers’ wits by finding an “elephant’s cemetery”.

Another of my favourite Zimbabwean trees, Entandrophragma caudatum – the aptly named Wooden Banana.

Interestingly enough watching this macabre spectacle along with us are two Germans who have been driving down in a 4X4 from their home country, formidable! Onwards we go, and the trees keep me thrilled all through the heat of the day.

Willy trying to get down some wooden ‘banana’ pods.

I do not think we managed to knock down any “Wooden Banana” pods for closer inspection. I believe this tree makes an excellent bonsai and I only wonder if the bonsai wooden bananas are also dinky. The “banana” splits when ripe as in the top photo (a sign of the rains promised…?) to aid in seed dispersal.

The thorny Rhigozum bush of arid climes all gloriously golden frames a hopping Willy

A beauty of the end of winter is Rhigozum bushes. Such fortitude and gaiety in the face of the dusty heat this sulphurous yellow inspires a rain dance from Willy. Also, “the flowers match my car” line must have surely been uttered – Saffron the Peugeot in the background and Sulphur-coloured Rhigozum bursting into flower in front.

 

A lovely place to rest for the night before the hard day’s counting ahead of us tomorrow is Sinamatella camp site. Just look at the majesty of the plains below. Even with the Game Count the following day we had the place almost to our selves.

Dawn breaks over Sinamatella camp and the valley below.

 

 

A whole post for one tree (again!)

A Commiphora tree baking in between rocks. An unlikely spot to see an owl!

I really could not get enough of this Commiphora – it must be love!

A tree supermodel at high noon

 

Beside the road; not besides the point

A lovely papaya for an impromptu stop off in Biriwiri

The spontaneous nature of travel is at least half the fun. Stop offs in seemingly random places can reveal hidden treasures, quench parched gullets, and lead to unexpected adventures. The old picnic table in Biriwiri was a nostalgic stop off for us and the perfect place to sample a ripe and succulent papaya we had sourced en route. The old Biriwiri bridge and a dip in the Bilharzia free river are further highlights along the way from Chirinda to Mutare.

Before braving the insane heat of the Zambezi valley best get in a couple of cold ones at Makuti

The last bastion of civilisation on the road from Harare to Kariba is the Makuti Lodge in Chirindu. For us on the way to Mana Pools it served as a pit stop for petrol and respite from the stubborn heat of day. Willy made phone calls from the stoep as cell phone coverage too was not guaranteed further North. It was still morning so we opted for the mellifluous comforts of milky tea instead of the more “traditional” bevies but did get a squizz at the time warp bar straight out of the 70’s (more photos at the end of this post).  An intact piece of Rhodesiana we again were the only guests at the motel though only passing through. Pity we could not go for a swim…

There may not be any water in the pool though

Kooky as anything you could imagine a bush pig grins devilishly

A place I always try a stop off on a road trip is at is Lion’s Den Butchery in Chinhoyi. Here, since I was a kid, I remember picking up grease-spotted brown paper bags of spicy biltong so the idea is loaded with happy childhood memories for me. As with most things biltong-related it is so much better than it sounds the fat is meltingly good off kudu, beef, ostrich, or other venison. To the initiated I need not explain further but for people whom have never sampled the chewy moist deeply tangly umami perfect- protein-snack that is biltong I will go so far as to explain that the raw, dried, and spiced meat can be shredded, powdered, sliced or sold in strips and that all are heavenly. Why biltong never caught on world wide is beyond my understanding and Americans the beef jerky I’ve tasted is not even half as good as Biltong so no points there.

One of my favourite detours is to Lion Biltong so delicious

Even from the car one glimpses a village here and there where a memory may form or catches sight of a passer-by whose activities reveal something peculiar to their lives. Of course, I loved be in Saffron our Peugeot and seeing Zimbabwe from her is a unique pleasure. The numerous and often annoying road blocks along Zimbabwe’s roads are a hazard to any traveller in the country. Luckily with Willy I had someone who spoke both Shona and Ndebele and was a doctor. Both of these attributes garner respect withstanding even the jaded and hungry glares of the roadblock police, often out in remote out posts thirsty for a bribe. Willy handled them all with suave savoire faire and we never had any trouble though I do not know how I could have survived without him or the lack-lustre camouflage of Saffron’s faded glamour unlikely to arouse the jealousy or greed usually inspired in the road police by tourists in luxury cars.

On the Macadamised road the setting sun send us good mojo

But! the draw backs are often too apparent. Here on the road from Harare to Bulawayo a few hours out still and just as the sun is disappearing over the Western sky we have more car problems. A old lay-by is marked only now by a Bougainvillea covered in Magenta flowers. Willy peers hopefully under the bonnet and I now with growing familiarity again sense the mixed fear and excitement of facing a night spent broken down by the road somewhere out there…

…only to find trouble again with Saffron’s motor

A lovely place to wait a Coral Tree (Erythrina latissima) burn up in the twilight

All is not lost tree-wise as a couple of Broad-leaved Coral Trees are in the height of their Spring floral displays. I figure at least if we do have to spend the night in this lonely spot at least I will above the light of both the setting and the rising sun play on the burnt scarlet fire of these magnificent specimens. On the other side of the road two Acacias also show off their flowers. Late winter is a spectacular time for flowering trees in Zimbabwe with the Rhodes violet or Tree Wisteria (Bolusanthus speciosa), Coral Trees, Knobthorn Acacia, etc all vying to attract pollinators that are still hungry from winter’s lean pickings.

Coral Trees light up sky in vermillion flowers irresistible to sunbirds.

We are safe and sound back in Bulawayo where the next stage of the trip must be prepared for. Part of the preparation must entail a much needed rest and some home comforts however but soon it is time to head off to Hwange for the game count and further adventure.

Destination : Bulawayo all aquamarine and vintage cars

Friends pose happily back at Willy’s

Old Biriwiri bridge seen from the new bridge

Taxidermied everything in the Makuti bar

Time for a road trip better get some padkos

Manning up in Mana Pools

Incredible Fig Tree possibly F. thonningii dominating a road side site in Mana Pools.

Heading North toward Kariba from Harare we start off early for the back breaking ride into Mana Pools. 4X4 absolutely de rigeur for the kilometres of bumpy dirt road that eventually lead us to the wetland reserve albeit shaken and stirred and two lungs full of dust. Mana Pools is unique in its policy of open contact with animals as unaccompanied walking is permitted. Just to start things off we come across a pack of Wild Dog lacadascial beneath the shade in between hunts. These comical dogs are the rarest predator in Southern Africa and always a treat to watch their white tails sending secret missives between members of the family.

A thrusting termite mound near the Mana camp site provides an opportunity for my own displays of virility.

We are back to camping and have, thanks to friends, acquired a spectacular site on the banks of the Zambezi. Willy and I set up tents to one side under a giant and singularly ancient Ana tree whose utility for local game was evident in the heart wood bared from countless rubbings by elephant and buffalo. Elephant are particularly fond of the nutritious apple-ring snapped fruit of this close relative of the Acacia.

The distinctive perspective of Mana Pools is hard to capture on film. Here Elephant, Baboon, and Eland can be seen from the fronds of a Forest Mahogany (Tirchelia dregeana) beneath the precisely delineated browse-line of other trees (Combretum imberbe…)

Mana is chock full of game particularly when we visit at the end of the dry season as the river acts as a magnet. The herds of antelope such as kudu and water buck along with buffalo and elephant maintain a uniform browse line as though in Park Land. All the leaf and branches are kept at the height of perhaps an Eland’s reach, which affords the viewers a far perspective, enchanting as a dream and magic for spotting many different animal activities at once. It is not uncommon to be able to see many different groups of Elephant, baboon, buffalo, hippo, kudu, etc all at once under the neatly clipped vegetation in the dry season.

On the other side of the Zambezi river is Zambia easily glimpsed from the quieter and less developed Zimbabwe side where we set up our charming camp.

From our tent the Mana experience is intense. In the foreground my shoe and behind them a Madonna and child Pachyderm style

From our tents we have visitors as the elephants search out for the Ana tree’s pods and to scratch themselves on its time-honoured trunk. Elephants are gentle giants and know exactly where they place their great padded feet so although they encircle our tent they never so much as squash a single twig without knowing it and leave all our artefacts in tact. We are also treated to a nocturnal raid by a huge herd of buffalo that we cannot see but their low grumbling ruminating, bovine snorts, and the crashing of the surrounding bush announces their weighty presence. The next morning they also left behind the fertile paddies as further evidence of their passing feast.

A great dust storm swirls around the camp. Here the distinctive swollen base of mature the Apple-ring Acacia or Ana tree (Faidherbia albida) can be seen to great effect.

Willy in the dust storm brave and impervious. Possibly off to make tea…?

Life is the camp site is pleasant enough even when an atmospheric dust storm kicks up. The landscape it transformed into a quasi-martian one and only brave souls venture out. Other camp visitors include the mischievous vervet monkeys that are on constant vigil over our wares and manage always to get away with some little prize. We cook over a fire and Willy serves up stir-fry with added Formic nutrients for extra crunch. I invent a cocktail to roaring success, christened a Sunset Tea involving the distinguishing flavour of Mazoe Orange Squash, Rooibos tea chilled and a plashing of gin. Tis a night or two to remember…

Life in a Mana camp site involves all sorts of visitors. Ants add protein to any meal and our veggie feast becomes a foodie magnet as we trend with the best of them in the insectivore movement.

Early rise for an exciting day of game viewing and tree spotting.

Willy celebrates his birthday with a mad cap dip in the crocodile infested waters of the Zambezi. Friends tag along…

The previous day we had spotted a bloody destruction of lions and having had our full of predators and the gory side of nature decided for a peaceful frolic by the river for the day’s activity. It also being Willy’s birthday we decided some gentle socialising was in order and so made our way to a site we chose for its isolation and loveliness and set up for a picnic and a day of lazy under riverine trees. Later, after lunch and ample siestas we head off for a drive and further admire the wonders of the park this time from our vehicles.

Our camp mates pose together at the end of an amazing day exploring Mana.

One way to photograph trees is to get your friends involved. Here, a Sausage Tree (Kigelia africana) flower leaves Willy quite moved. The maroon bloom attracts bats that do not need bright colours to find their quarry.

Tree huggers get a new look as there three different species get tight (Faidherbia, Combretum, and…?)

My favourite tree in Mana – I am not sure now of the species – Diospyros mespiliformis? an enormous Maytenus? but it exemplifies an aesthetic of sturm und drang I admire in plants

It is not all wine and roses in the bush eh! got to keep the pesky flies at bay

Gonna rescue you in Gonarezhou

Eventually, you have to leave even a place as heavenly as Chilijo cliffs. I stored the memories of majesty and space in my heart and packed up camp. On the way out we ran into some of the famous elephant from Gonarezhou, place of elephants. They were in a terrible mood, probably due to the presence of little ones in the matriarchal herd. The entire herd, babies included, stormed after our car quite unprovoked. This happened enough times to assure us that it was a ‘bad mood’ morning for the elephants, in general. 

Elephants are interesting and intelligent creatures. My passion is trees – elephants often destroy trees but also they are indispensable to the health of the bush. An irate elephant is fearsome and  can knock down an ancient Leadwood (Combretum imberbe) in minutes. Elephants though are largely responsible for the germination of hard seeds like those of the Lala palm (Hyphaene coriacea) and perhaps those of the sausage tree. Also, they keep saplings in check and it is this last function that makes elephants the veld’s best friends. Without their “destructive” behaviour the savannah would become forest. Seeing them so protective over their offspring certainly brings their power and force to the front of one’s mind.

Soon, though we found out just how vulnerable we were as we checked on the flow of water in the river and got quite badly stuck in the fierce, deep river sand. Poor Saffron, the Peugeot, was in up to her neck and Willy and I starting to think we may not be leaving Gona so very soon, after all. As I mentioned in my previous post on Chilojo cliffs, we were pretty much on our own in a truly vast transfrontier park. Just the Zimbabwe portion of the Limpopo Transfrontier Park is more than 5 000 square kilometres. We were not in the truly deserted southern extremities of the park though, so there was hope. Just, that we had not seen anyone all day and here we were stuck.

Planning a trip anywhere in Zimbabwe is vital. You will need all sorts of things from licences for the car, to water and petrol. Luckily we were by water here and had also brought enough with us, in case. Also, we were set up for camping already and so would not have actually had to sleep in the car. We had extra food too…now, if only those elephants had not looked so eager to tear us apart – I would be able to enjoy the setting for our marooning.

We were in a camp site too, though you could not tell to look at it. If you are planning to stay in a camp in Gonarezhou I recommend checking which ones have water and facilities – this one had a tree and a river. Basic stuff, even if the scenery compensates.

Other items it is essential to pack are of course tools to get you out of a situations such as this : stuck in the sand – with no signs of external help. Well, the attempt certainly was valiant. First, we moved all the items that were starting to overheat into the shade.

I was just waiting for Willy to actually suggest we have a cup o’ tea. Instead we doused our hats in the rapids, which by definition are crocodile free. It was, after all, the elephants I was most worried about, at this point. Our petrol, water, and some grub under the shade of a Lonchocarpus capassa we proceeded to build a ‘raft’ out of wood (how helpful are these trees) and not forgetting to spare the tyres by using a shower curtain, pink, as luck would have it. 

Operations an initial success. A truly perfect outcome only thwarted by ‘Saffron’ sliding down into another sandy mess. Our raft and shower curtain, by this stage, quite properly spent.

I started to look for a tree with good cover under which to pitch my tent. However, the good fight had not quite been fought to the end. On Willy’s suggestion, we were to head to the main road and there wait for a knight or perhaps an entire crusade.

Luckily it was far too hot for lions to conjure up a wit, let alone get bent on killing us. It was just those images of irritable elephant that were harder to erase. Off we set though, I suppose thinking that it might have been the engine of the car that the elephants so despised. We waited by a termite mound, perhaps with a lovely acacia growing out of it to shade us.

The other item I would be sure to take with on any journey into Zimbabwe is a thoroughly entrenched local. Someone like Willy. We had not sat fifteen minutes when knights arrived, practically trumpets playing. Would you know it too, it is a far better thing to have to explain such a situation to friendlies. Turns out, Willy knew personally our rescuers and the whole thing was pulled off in a mischievous spirit quite making light of the circumstances. Willy’s friend’s, on an expedition of their own in a Land Rover, marvelous things, came to our punctual rescue.

What a set up, quite made us, double-rugged tans and beards aside, look amateurish. I do not think we had the inclination to even dash the shower curtain away before the scene was transformed, with utter efficiency, into what, you can see, was our ticket out of the tricky sands.

We had made it, this time. ‘Saffron’, the beloved Peugeot had performed well but was certainly out of her depth here. Luckily, help was not too hard to come by. Willy’s friends too, easier that way to stay in touch and make proper thanks later. However, the day was not yet passed noon and already we were in the thick of adventure – this promised to be quite an eventful day if things kept up at this pace. Indeed, the day did not disappoint.